The Table of Catarina of Austria, Queen of Portugal (16th century).

   On the 14th of January, 1507, was born in Torquemada, Catarina of Austria. She was the daughter of Queen Joana of Castile,"the mad" and the Archduke of Austria and Duke of Burgundy, Philip, "the handsome", who died before she was born. She was named in honor of her maternal aunt, Katherine of Aragon, the first wife of Henry VIII of England. She remained with her mentally unstable mother, imprisoned at Tordesillas castle, until she was about to marry. Joana was still able to fulfill her duties as a mother and made sure Catarina had the same excellent education as herself, preparing her well for future life at court. Catarina was fluent in Latin, Greek and Spanish. She had religious, humanist and classical knowledge. She was also an excellent dancer, embroider and could play the organ. 

   In 1525, Catarina married her cousin, King João III of Portugal. Even though it was an arranged marriage, Catarina and João truly loved each other and spend together as much time as they could. Catarina participated frequently in her husband's government. They had nine children, unfortunately only two reach adolescence, but died soon after. The king died in 1557, his grandson, Sebastião, was still too young to rule, so the Queen became regent until 1562, when she abdicated to her brother in law, Cardinal Henrique. Many people were not happy with her being the regent, because even though she was a good governor, she was Spanish and they were afraid that Portugal would lose its independence. In 1571, tired of all the conflicts in court, especially because her grandson didn't want to marry and didn't have an heir, she tries to leave Portugal to a convent in Spain, but stays because the Portuguese government and other important people around the country insisted on it. She died on the 6th of February, 1578.

   Most of the time, Catarina had dinner in the company of her ladies-in-waiting, in her rooms. Noble men would bring various dishes to the Queen's door, and them three women would serve them, and one of them would carve the meat. In the end of the meal, the cellarer would bring pickled fruits or fresh ones, that were considered very important during the renaissance, because some of the fruit was very rare. Quinces, lemons, peaches, pears and candied fruit from Madeira were very appreciated in the Lisbon Court, as well as sweet oranges from China. But her rooms were not just for her and the court ladies, sometimes she would also have dinner with the king or have banquets and entertainments that included some male courtiers.
   Court dinners and its ceremonies were full of political connotations, to proclaim the monarch's power as ruler of Portugal and of its ultramarine empire. A lot of spices seasoned the dishes: cinnamon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, saffron, cumin, musk, rose water, and orange flower water, salt and sugar (from Madeira), etc. The Queen's kitchen, in the 16th century, reflected an explorers era: A cooking book belonging to Catarina's niece, Maria, princess of Parma, from 1565, shows a recipe for wine mixed with lots of sugar, like it was drank in Brasil. Other recipes reflect Moroccan influence, like chicken stew with onions, parsley and coriander or chicken with cinnamon and sugar. Couscous was also frequently cooked. Another favorite recipe included pheasants, quinces and candied fruits. 

   Catarina also had a provision of pharmaceutical drugs, like camphor and plums for her table, kitchen and apothecary. Benzoin, a plant from Ceylon, was used to cure various diseases, and was frequently sent to the Queen, from India. Musk water was essential to season food. The Queen colected a lot of exoctic objects with medicinal properties, or to serve as amulet, like amber and gray-amber. 

   The Queen's tableware had several pieces that she brought upon her wedding, others executed by her personal goldsmith and others imported from various countries, like Flanders or Castille. There were lots of silver and goldenware, like a sugar bowl, small pots, trays, perfume pans, incense burners, service basins, hand wash basins, kitchen basins, cart-shaped water barrels, candlesticks, baskets of various sizes, jam jars, dishes, fruit bowls, cruets, flasks, bowls with handles, jars, vinegar bottles, salt shakers, etc. Also a lot of the Queen's cooking containers were made of silver. Other objects were entirely made of gold, like bowls influenced by Italian renaissance designs. The decorative themes were mostly classic, but there were some with religious scenes too. The Queen had also various precious knifes, forks and spoons, crystal glasses, embroidered tablecloths and napkins.   

    Catarina had one of the earliest and finest Chinese porcelain collections in Europe due to her position as both the youngest sister of Emperor Charles V and the Queen of Portugal. Her collection became the first kunstkammer (cabinet of curiosities) of the Iberian Peninsula. 
   

Bibliography: Jordan, Annemarie - Catarina de Áustria, A rainha colecionadora, Círculo De Leitores, 2012.

An english translation of a Treatise of Portuguese Cuisine from the 15th Century is available in http://www.medievalcookery.com/notes/tratado.html

Portrait: Catarina of Austria, by Anthonis Mor, 1552, Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid. 

Picture: Elephant with sal receptacle, 1550 by Francisco Lopez, Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, in https://www.wga.hu/html_m/l/lopez_f/elephant.html